Site Plan

Before you begin to design your deck, take a walk around your house, and measure all necessary dimensions. Take note of natural features, terrain, grades, locations of doors, windows, vents, hoses, outlets, landscaping, etc, sun and shade patterns, and desireable and undesirable views.

Then take the measurements and notes and sketch a site plan, which is a bird's eye view of your property as if you were looking down at it from above. A good site plan shows everything that is on your property now. This includes:

• footprint of your house and other structures (e.g. garage, storage shed, existing decks or patios)
• other improvements such as driveways, walkways, fences, swimming pool, etc.
• proposed deck or other improvements (clearly marked as improvements)
• location of property lines
• dimensions for each item

The site plan should be drawn done to scale (e.g. 1 inch on the plan might be equal to 20 feet etc.). A site plan is necessary whenever applying for a building or zoning permit.

Coverage

Some zoning or neighborhood associations may require you to calculate coverage, which is the total percentage of hard (or impervious) surface on your property. It includes everything except grass and landscaped areas. To calculate coverage, add up the square footage of all buildings and other site improvements such as walkways, driveways and decks, multiply by 100, and then divide by the total square footage of your lot. Do this for both the existing site and then again for the proposed changes to your property.

Location

The location should be accessible from the house and yard. Easy access to the kitchen is desirable, as the kitchen is usually a focal point for dining and entertaining. Consider existing patios, walkways, and doors. Be sure to note the location of existing spigots (and availability of water in general), electrical outlets, vents, and any other important access points. These may need to be moved, or an access panel provided.

Sometimes it makes sense to build a deck on sloping or rough ground that is otherwise difficult to use.

When building an elevated deck, you may want to locate the deck in an area that maximizes the height of the underdeck area, so that the underdeck area may be finished. This may be accomplished with the aid of retaining walls that create additional level ground under the deck.

See Also: http://localhost/drupal/DeckViews

Traffic Pattern

It is preferred to have the traffic pattern go around the edges of a room instead of through the center. Space can be broken up by railings, benches, planters, and levels. Often seperate areas created are for special uses such as cooking, sunning, eating, a spa, or entertaining.

It is optimal that the outdoor cooking area be located close to the kitchen. Sunbathing areas can be located further away from the house, away from trees and other shade creating structures.

Views

Location

The deck's location should be chosen to optimize good views, and minimize undesirable views, such as neighbor's bedrooms, streets, garages, etc. The deck's orientation, and especially seating, should be facing towards the best view, if one exists.

Sloping HillSide

A common technique for optimizing the view for a house built on a downward sloping hillside, is to build the deck either at a lower level, or in steps going down the hill. This permits an unobstructed view from both inside the house and from the higher deck levels.

Screening

Screens made of lattice or other materials, possibly used in combination with landscaping such as trees, vines, and tall bushes, can be used to provide privacy, and fully or partially block undesireable views. A solid screen provides total privacy, but does not allow air to circulate. Vines are often grown on lattice for added blocking. Another option is louvered fencing.

Railings

Railing systems are available that reduce view obstruction, by using smaller metal ballusters, cable rails, or transparent materials.

View from Inside the House

When planning the location of your deck or screen room, remember to take into consideration that the view from inside the house may be partially blocked or otherwise restricted by a deck or screen room built in front of the room's windows. Consider locating the deck or screen room in a place that does not block the view from inside the house, but also offers a good view itself.

Shape

Deck design has moved far beyound the basic rectangular shapes popular in the 80's and 90's. Modern deck designs include angles, curves, multiple levels, semi-circles, and octagonal patterns. These geometric shapes are aesthetically pleasing to the eye, making the deck appear less blocky, and give your deck a sense of uniqueness, helping create an inviting flow, from one area to the next.

Size

The deck should be in scale with the house. A large deck built onto a small house may seem out of place, while a small deck attached to a large house seems vast and uninviting. For a smaller home, a deck adds additional space for guests to spread out and relax.

For dining areas, provide at least a 12' x 12' area, to permit easy movement around the table.

Sun & Shade

Be sure to take a walk around your property on a sunny day and observe the patterns of sun and shade. Determine the amount of sun the deck will get at different times of the day. It is desirable that the deck have some shade in the afternoon and early evening, when most entertaining is done. Usually this requires the deck be built on the southeast or southwest side of the house, or near a large tree that provides shade. Generally speaking, locating the deck in the south-east side of the house is ideal, as it usually offers the best combination of sun and shade, with sun during the day, and shade in the evening. x

Decks built facing west may be uncomfortable in the evening, as the setting sun creates a blinding effect, and guests are unable to see any westward views (as they are blinded), and must sit facing the house if possible.

A deck with no shade will be uncomfortably hot for your guests. If you like to sunbathe, you may want to provide a sunny areal.

Other options for creating shade include installing a retractable awning, building a screen room or deck roof (essentially creating a porch), and sun umbrellas.

Patterns

Most decking is installed in a straight (linear) pattern. More complex patterns can be used, but they usually require a more complex substructure for support.

Safety Tip: Changing the direction of deck boards on different levels can help alert guests to a step up or down, reducing the chance of tripping.

Here are some some examples of popular patterns:

Straight

Diagnal Pattern (usually requires 12 inch on center joists)

Herringbone Method #1

Herringbone Method #2

Bull's Eye Method #1

Bull's Eye Method #2

Basketweave

Picture Frame

Mitered

Three-course mitered border

Geometric

Small BasketWeave

Colors

Select colors and materials that are consistent with the architectural style of the house. Blend the deck design with landscaping and existing natural features (rocks, trees, etc.). Create a landscaping border around the deck to blend its outline with the yard. Use contrasting colors and materials to add interest, e.g. different colored railings, benches, or wood decking bordered by a stone walkway, etc. Bear in mind that lighter colors reflect more light resulting in a cooler surface temperature on hot, sunny days, and are less likely to fade.

Natural Features

The deck should integrate with your landscaping and surrounding property. Natural features such as trees and rocks can be integrated into your deck design with beautiful results. The deck's design should break up the lines of your home, adding visual appeal.
Colors

Doors & Windows

Consider the location of existing doors and windows. It may make sense to install larger doors, or move existing doors, for better access to specific funtional areas, or for a more safe or inviting entry, or improved traffic flow.

Wind

For windy locations, be sure and consider wind direction when contemplating layout.

Ideally outdoor living spaces are sheltered from prevailing winds, either by the house or by a screens (lattice pannels, landscapting, etc.).

Types

Footings

Footings must be deeper than the frost line to prevent heaving when ground freezes. Typically concrete footings are poored with metal post anchors that interface to the posts. This is preferable to setting the posts directly in concrete, which could make repairs and modifications difficult, and expose the posts to additional moisture. Check local building codes for exact depth and width requirements.

Posts

Posts are typically made of 4x4 or 6x6 treated lumber, often referred to as "timbers". Alternatively, round poles, steel, or concrete could be used as well. Steel or concrete are usually only used if special support requirements exist.

For decks made with plastic based decking, consider wrapping the posts in the same material as the decking, either using actual decking pieces, or matching fascia trim boards.

Beams

Beams are usually contructed by bolting two 2 x 8's, 2 x 10's or 2 x 12's together, with spacing in between to prevent debree collection and rot. This is considered preferable to using a single large timber for the beam, e.g. a 4 x 6, as the smaller width lumber performs better. The beams span the posts. It is preferrable to have a larger beam size so as to reduce the number of posts, as additional posts increase cost and complexity. Of course, having too few posts could make the deck unstable.

Ledger

Most decks are not freestanding, but instead are supported by a combination of the posts and the house to which it is attached. The attachment is accomplished using a deck ledger board, which is typically a 2 x 8, 2 x 10 or 2 x 12 board fastened to the side of the house, designed to support one end of the floor joists using joists hangers.

There are two methods attaching the deck ledger board to the house 1) installation of flashing that routes water flow away from the house/ledger board connection and the installation of spacers to provide ventilation between the house and the ledger board , or 2) use of heavy aluminum brackets, carefully sealed to prevent water intrusion, e.g. The Main Deck Bracket.

It is critical that the ledger board's attachment to the house does not allow allow moisture to penetrate the structure of the house. Water intrusion could cause mold growth or corrosion of connectors and wood dry rot, leading to deck collapse.

Joists

The floor joists span either the ledger board and a beam, or two beams. They are typically laid 16 inches on-center, but may be installed either 12" or 24" inches on-center, depending on the decking strength and the decking pattern.

Often the joists "Cantilever" the beam, which means they hang out over the beam so as to increase the deck size without additional posts and beams.

The exposed joist oposite the Ledger board is called a Rim joist. The joists on the ends are called End joists.

It is often advisable use a larger size joist than required by the span tables, in order to reduce floor vibration, and provide a less bouncy more solid feeling deck.

Bracing

A number of vendors make metal bracing products that help stengthen the substructure at critical points.

Here is a list of bracing manufacturers:

The Maine Deck Bracket Company
www.deckbracket.com

Maine Deck Bracket: Revolutionary method of attaching Decks, Stairs, Signs and other appendages to buildings. Maine Deck Brackets are Rugged Aluminum Extrusions, specifically designed for proper attachment of stairs, Decks, signs, porches, or any other appendage to buildings or other structural uses; MAINE Deck Brackets allow attachments without creating openings or pockets for water, debris, or insects to enter.

Simpson Strong-Tie®
http://www.strongtie.com/safedeck

A leader in structural systems research and technology, Simpson is one of the largest suppliers of structural building products in the world.

Load

Live load, sometimes called dynamic load, refers to all of the loads that are variable as a part of the deck's normal usage. Typically this would include loads applied by people walking, furniture, wind, and snow.

Static load, sometimes called dead load, refers to loads that do not change (i.e. are static) over the normal operation of the deck. Typically this would include the loads applied by decking, handrails, railings, and other permanent fixtures. If a spa or screen room is to be supported by the deck substructure, the substructure will have to be reinforced to support the added spa load.

In areas that experience heavy snowfalls it is necessary to design the deck substructure so that it can handle the added snow load.

Landings

Landings

Landings can help break up a long flight of stairs, making them safer, easier to climb, and more aesthetically pleasing. Landings can also change the direction of stairs, e.g. making a ninety degree turn, etc. For stairs with a run greater than 12’, most codes require a landing for safety.

For decks that are lower than the house, create a small landing at the doorway at the same level as the house. Often decks are designed with this step down to facilitate easier installation of the ledger board on the house, for example, in some cases lowering the ledger permits it to be connected directly to the basement foundation wall, instead of to higher framed structure of the house. A benefit of having a reduced height deck is that snow accumulation will not block doors as easily.

Calculations

Calculation Example

Total rise of 125”
Maximum riser height of 7.5”
Desired tread run is 10”
Number of risers: 125”/ 7.5 = 16.66, round up to 17
Riser height: 125”/17 risers = 7.35”
Staircase length: 17 risers x 10” = 170”, or 14.16’

If you want to build your own stairs, check out the Stair Stringer Calculator at http://www.shalla.net/.

Code Requirements

Code requirements

Note that these are the most common code requirements; check with your local building department, as the code may be different in your area.

Tread run is a minimum of 10 inches (BOCO 96). Maximum nosing is 1.5”.

Riser height is a minimum of 5 inches, and a maximum of 7 ¾ inches (BOCO 96).

Risers are required to be a uniform height, as uneven steps could cause someone to trip.

Rail dimensions and headroom are also determined by building codes.

For stairs with a run greater than 12’, a landing is required.

Terms

To understand stair design, there are a few terms to know:

Run: Horizontal length.

Rise: Vertical length.

Tread: The surface on which you step. It can be made of dimensional lumber or decking material. The tread run is measured from the outer edge of the tread to the next riser (see below).

Total Run: The length of all the treads.

Nosing: The part of the tread that hangs over the riser on the stair below the tread. If present, the total run is not the sum of the tread widths, as the treads overlap.

Riser: The vertical piece, often omitted in deck stair construction. Risers can be made from dimensional lumber, or decking, or fascia board that matches your decking. Standard riser height is 7 5/8 inches.

Total Rise: The distance from the top of the deck surface (deck floor height) to the surface below (landing, sidewalk, lower deck surface, etc.).

Stringer: These are the structural pieces that hold the treads and risers. Stringers are typically made from dimensional lumber, e.g. 2x12’s or 2x14’s, and notched to provide attachment to the treads and risers. For stairs greater than 36” wide, 3 stringers are required.
Design & Installation Options

Wood

For a comparison of decking / lumber types, see our list of Wood Decking / Lumber Products.

Wood is the world's most widely used building material, and decks are no exception. Most deck substructures are made from pressure treated lumber. Wood options for decking and railing include pressure treated lumber (cheaper but higher maintenance and not as nice looking) or higher-end wood species such as cedar, ipe, and redwood.

Heartwood vs. Sapwood

The heartwood is the older, inner-core wood of trees, which is mechanically strong and resistant to fungal decay and attack by insects, providing support for the weight of the tree. It typically has chemicals that make it darker in color and sometimes aromatic. It is difficult to penetrate with wood preserving chemicals.

Sapwood is a newer, outer layer of paler, softer wood that transports water and minerals to the crown of the tree. Sapwood cells are periodically converted to heartwood. The higher permeability of the sapwood makes it expand and contract easily. The movement caused by may cycles of shrinkage and expansion can cause it to warp, crack, and splinter due to changes in moisture (wet/dry) conditions.

The heartwood portion of species such as Redwood, Cypress and Cedar provide naturally durable wood. Lumber is often graded as to its heartwood/sapwood makeup. It is important to note that with any species, only heartwood grades are durable, while grades with sapwood content are susceptible to rot and insect attack (unless treated).

Moisture Content (MC)

Changes in MC are the cause of many of the problems associated with wood, including warping, checking, cuping, roting, and peeling paint. The MC that will be exprienced in-service is called equilibrium moisture content (EMC) . Ideally, the lumber's MC when installed is equal to EMC. The EMC that will be achieved is determined by relative humidity:

RHMC
25%5%
50%9%
75%14%
90%20%

Wood used inside of homes should have an MC of about 8%. For wood installed outdoors, the ideal MC depends on the region. For eastern states, 14% is acceptable, while dry western states require lower MC, of about 6%. For more information, see the USDA Forest Products Laboratory pamphlet Equilibrium Moisture Content of Wood in Outdoor Locations in the United States and Worldwide.

Lumber marked S-GRN was "surfaced green" with MC above 19%, and should be avoided, as it will undergo significant dimensional change as it dries. Lumber marked KD (Kiln Dried) or S-DRY (Surfaced Dry) indicates the lumber was surfaced when MC was at or below 19%. However, after surfacing, the lumber could easily absorb significant amounts of moisture, depending on where it is stored. In fact, storage outside in the rain, or on wet ground, or near an ocean or lake, could significantly increase the MC of previously dried wood, raising MC far above 19%. Thus it is ideal to check lumber with a moisture meter before installation.

For more information, see our Wood Lumber Glossary.

Hardwood

Hardwood refers to broad leaved, mostly deciduous (dormant in winter months - tropical hardwoods are the exception) species such as ash, elm, hickory, ipe, mahogany, maple, oak, poplar, sycamore, and walnut. They often have nuts or seeds such as acorns. Most hardwood is of higher density and hardness than softwood, but this not always the case, as some hardwoods (e.g. balsa) are softer than most softwoods. The main feature that separates hardwoods from softwoods is the presence of microscopic pores, or vessels in hardwoods.

Ipe

Very hard, strong, dense, stable, and durable wood, it has natural decay and insect resistance.

Extreme density makes it difficult to work with, carbide tipped blades for cutting and pre-drilling of fastener holes is required.

For more information, see:

	Brasileirinho.biz Ipe decking exporter. Brazilian ipe decking. Brazilian rough sawn wood. Ipe deck tiles. Industrial flooring. Brazilian Pinus wood.
	Ipedeckbrazil.com Ipe decking exporter. Ipe decking. Ipe from Brazil. Ipe wood tiles. Ipe industrial flooring.
	Brasilegno.com Ipe decking exporter. Ipe decking. Hardwood decking. Wood tiles. Industrial flooring.Pavimenti esterni in legno. Tarimas de madera. Brasil legno. Ipe decking from Brazil.
	Brasil-wood.com Ipe decking exporter, deck tiles and industrial flooring from Brazil.
	IPE Depot

Mahogany

Wood Alternative

The poor performance of wood decking and railing (most often Pressure Treated Lumber) has created a large market for wood alternative decking an railing products. Wood decking, often within five years of installation, splinters and cracks, resulting in a poor surface for walking barefoot, and a dangerous situation for babies and toddlers. Each cycle of wet and dry swells and shrinks the boards, resulting in more cracks, cups, and splintering.

Wood alternative materials include aluminum, concrete, plastic, and stone. The most popular wood alternatives are "Wood/Plastic Composites" (WPCs), a type of plastic lumber made by mixing plastic with wood fibers, e.g. Trex or TimberTech. In theory, wood alternatives that have "0% wood content" may have a longer lifetime, as the wood in WPCs could potentially rot or be attacked by insects (most WPC include biocides and other chemicals to prevent this, but there is no guarantee).

Fascia/Trim

Typically, facia board that matches aluminum or plastic decking is installed around the perimitter of the deck to hide the rim and end joists. Most wood alternative decking manufacturers offer matching facia, often in 1/2" x 8" or 1/2" x 12" dimensions, in 12 foot lengths. The facia board may be used to wrap support posts, stair stringers, or other wood components of the deck.

Some manufacturers also offer trim and stair riser materials in matching colors. Matching color coordinated railings, typically made from the same material as the decking, are offered by many decking manufactures.

Types

Ballusters

Benches

It is critical to have proper seating on your deck for all of your guests. Multiple individual deck chairs can really clutter up your deck fast! Plastic benches can be purchased, but deck benches create a custom look. They can be permanently attached to your deck or be movable.

Some technical things to consider when building a deck bench are height width. Typically, they are built 16" high and 16" deep. You want to allow a 30" wide sitting width per person. To make them more comfortable, consider sloping them towards the back about 1". Of course, you only want to do this if your bench has a back. If it is a permanently attached bench, the deck railing itself can be used as a back. Try to leave room between the slats for water drainage. Materials are important as you do not want to use materials that can splinter.

Consider the view when installing a bench. You want your guests to face an attractive view. Shade is also an important factor. You can use fabric cushions on them for added comfort. Keep in mind your traffic pattern. You do not want to install a bench so that your guests have to walk around it. Keeping them around the perimeter of your deck is a great option.

Planters

Lighting

Shade Structures

Storage

Hot Tubs

Outdoor Kitchens

Underdeck Space

Several options exist for utilizing underdeck space, depending on the elevation of the deck.

Ground level and lower (less than 24" off the ground) decks typically have any sod or landscaping removed, and a layer of sand, and then landscaping fabric, and then gravel, installed in the underdeck area. The landscaping fabric permits water to drain but blocks light to prevent weed growth.

Elevated decks may use the underdeck area for storage, in which case the sand/landscaping fabric/gravel treatment is typically applied. Or, a dry underdeck system may be installed that makes the underdeck area into usable living space by channelling away water from above.

Building Codes

2006 International Residential Code

Testing

Local Building Codes

It is important that you check with your local building department for specific requirments or restrictions applicable to your area, to assure compliance with local building codes. Be sure and file for a building permit, if one is required. Typically building permits are required for decks that are attached to the house, and are elevated 24" or more.

Building a non-compliant structure can have serious repercusions. The building department or neighborhood association may require a non-compliant structure be rebuilt or removed. When a house is sold, the buyer's home inspector may require significant changes to a non-compliant structure to bring it into compliance.

Zoning

Zoning

Zoning ordinances impose limitations such as height restrictions, setback requirements (specifies how far structures must be from the property line), lot coverage (the proportion of the lot covered by buildings and other structures), and architectural design standards.

Neighborhood Review

Neighborhood Review

Some neighborhoods have covenants that restrict home improvements, or review boards that must approve your project. These are specified in your property's abstract (the properties legal record), and in the title opinion provided at the time of property purchase.

Deed Restrictions

Deed Restrictions

Deed restrictions may limit a deck's design, construction, or location. Check the deed for easements, architectural-standard restrictions, and other limitations.

Buried Utilities

Buried Utilities

Call your local utilities and have them come out and mark the location of buried utilities, including gas, electric, water, sewer, cable, and telephone. This is usually a free service.

Resources

Resources

National Evaluation Services, Inc. tests building products to make sure they conform to building codes.

Building codes for the United States are now set by the International Code Council.

Safety

Always lift with your legs.

Take care in removing old treated lumber.

Wear dust masks when cutting treated lumber.

Wear safety glasses at all times.

Wear ear plugs when working with power tools or around other loud noises.

Tools

Here is a list of tools commonly required for deck building:

SAFETY ITEMS:

Safety glasses
Dust mask
Ear plugs

GENERAL:

Hammer
Skill saw
Standard carbide saw blades with less than 20 teeth
Rasp
Level
Square
Posthole digger
Wheelbarrow
Framing square
Phillips-head screwdriver
Chalk line
4' wood stakes
Mason's String

SPECIALITY

Bo-wrench (1-man self-locking board bender tool)

Tips

Measure twice and cut once.

It makes sense to buy some extra material, as it can returned to most lumberyards. Many even offer a free pickup service upon completion of your project.

Inspection

Building Green

For more information, see:

Green Building Certification

NAHB Green Building Guidelines
http://www.nahbrc.org/greenguidelines/

Sustainable Forestry Initiative (SFI)

SFI program participants practice sustainable forestry on all the lands they manage. They also influence millions of additional acres through the training of loggers and foresters in best management practices and landowner outreach programs.

This unique commitment to sustainable forestry recognizes that all forest landowners, not just SFI program participants, play a critical role in ensuring the long-term health and sustainability of our forests.

Products from SFI certified companies are recognized under both the Green Building Initiative’s (GBI) Green Globes and the NAHB Green building systems. In addition, you can support forest certification by preferentially purchasing products from our certified companies even if you are not seeking green building certification.

For more information see:
http://www.aboutsfi.org/

General

Ledger Board - the joist rim board that attaches the deck to the house.

Plastic Lumber

Wood / Lumber

AD (Air Dried) - Method of drying green lumber by exposure to natural atmospheric conditions outdoors or in an unheated building. Construction grade lumber is usually dried to around 19% MC.

Board Foot - A method of measuring wood volume. For example, a board that is one-inch thick and 12 inches wide and 12 inches long would has 144 cubic inches or one board foot. To calculate board feet, multiply thickness x width x length (all in inches) giving a cubic inch volume and then divide by 144. Lumber thickness prior to surfacing is used in computing board feet.

Bow - Warping where the board to deviates from flatness lengthwise.

Bright - Term used to describe lumber that is free from discoloration.

Cant - rectangular shaped block of wood that remains after after outer sections are sawn away.

Check - Splitting usually occurring at the ends of boards lengthwise across the rings of annual growth, often as a result of seasoning.

Crook - Warping where the board edge is not a straight line from end to end.

Cull - A log that can not be sold due to rot, crookedness, cavities or shake.

Cup - Warping where the board to deviates from flatness across the width of the board.

Dead Knot - A knot that has lost its fibrous connection with the surrounding wood and can easily loosen or fall out.

EMC (Equilibrium Moisture Content) - A condition where lumber MC is equal to the moisture in the surrounding air.

Green Lumber – lumber that has undergone no formal drying. Usually green lumbe has MC greater than 30%.

Hygroscopic - refers to materials that absorb or discharge moisture to attain equilibrium with the surrounding atmosphere.

Kiln Dried - Wood dried in a special room or chamber that controls temperature and humidity to control the drying process.

KDAT (Kiln Dried After Treatment) - Pressure treated lumber that was seasoned in a kiln to a predetermined moisture content after treatment. See also: Kiln Dried

MC - Moisture Content. See also: EMC.

Nominal Size - The rough-sawn size of a piece of lumber, before surfacing. For example, 2"x4" is the nominal size for a boards actual dimensions are is 1.4" x 3.25".

Pith - The soft core in the center of a tree.

Plain-Sawn lumber - Lumber that was sawed tangential to the growth rings.

PTL - Pressure Treated Lumber

Shake - damage due to separation of annual growth rings.

SPF (Spruce Pine or Fir) Referres to softwood species such as Southern Yellow Pine, which have a high percentage of sapwood, and are the predominant species used for making PTL, as wood preservatives are able to penetrate sapwood much better than heartwood.

Wane - Bark or lack of wood on the board edge. A certain amount of wane is allowed to meet some lumber grades.